Everything I Ate During Three Days in Iceland

This is a continuation of my posts on all the food I had during my 12 day trip to Finland, Sweden, Copenhagen, and Iceland. You can find part one on Finland here, part two on Sweden here, and part three on Copenhagen here.

Day One: Half Day

Walking mileage: 12.1 miles

I arrived in Iceland near 6pm, and unfortunately the process to get my rental car was longer than anticipated. Isn’t it always? Sigh. However, fortunately, the sun didn’t set until 11:08pm, sooo… I still had plenty of night to spend exploring Reykjavik. I checked in to my hotel and hit the streets. I loved Reykjavik. A small city, still broad daylight at 8pm, mid 40s, and plenty of restaurants, bars, and shops to peruse. I was in the most “tourist” heavy area – the main part of town with concentration of shops and restaurants. It got fairly residential just a few streets over. But those streets were quiet and pretty. Lots of very colorful houses, and a very European feel. The wind was blowing, and there were bursts of rain and sunshine. I got the lay of the land very quickly – it was a very easily walkable city.

Weird detail to include maybe, but it also smelled really good? I’m not sure if there’s a particular plant there or something, but I was struck by it.

Anyways, it was late and I was hungry, so I set out in search of dinner. I found the Pósthús Food Hall & Bar and stepped right in. It was a really nice place – up a set of stairs and then you’re right in the middle of a food hall with tons of food options and plenty of places to sit. There were lots of different rooms with different kinds of feels to them, like you’re just walking through different restaurants. Great views, lots of options. Not too loud or crowded-feeling, despite being busy.

I got a burger from Funky Bhangra, which is described as “Indian cuisine with a Scandinavian twist.” I suppose you can fusion anything? I got the burger, and it was incredible. “A unique burger with a medley of aromatic Indian spices. Scandinavian pickles, straw fries, herb salad and Funky Bhangra raita. Pappadums, and Tamarind Mayo on the side.”

This was a stand-out meal of the trip, honestly. Which is impressive because I was nine days in at this point! But it was so so good. A mess to eat – definitely a knife and fork burger, but I ‘m not complaining. That just means it was loaded! The lamb was great. I also love papadums and they were the perfect side instead of fries or something.

When I was done, it was only like 9:30 and I felt like I had to stay out because it was still daylight. So I went in search of a bar. There were lots of bars. One of them was filled to the gills with people – some sort of music bar you could hear down the road because people were singing so loud. There was also a Big Lebowski themed bar? And a gin bar that looked tempting (on Negroni Street!). But the gin bar was overrun, so I retooled and went to the Daisy cocktail bar, which was inviting and just the right amount of busy. I got a seat at the bar and perused another difficult-to-decide menu.

I went with a White Chocolate Pisco Sour. It was very tasty! I wasn’t sure what to expect with the white chocolate, but it worked. And I broke my no more cardamom rule with this, and it didn’t feel like a mistake – it wasn’t too strong in this. I was considering a second drink when I glanced at the prices and thought they seemed high. I wasn’t great at converting the currencies, so I pulled out my phone and gasped when I realized the price. $27!! For a single drink!! It was like that LA bar with the $24 Old Fashioned all over again. At least this drink was unique and tasty and in Iceland. But I balked. I was not going to be getting a second drink.

I wondered if I had been supremely ripped off, but then I looked at some other menus and it appeared all drinks in Iceland were expensive. A bummer! But definitely something one should know before going. I initially wondered if they were just preying off of tourists not understanding the currency, but I think it has to do with some steep taxes? Regardless, I finished my drink and decided I would probably not have any more drinks in Iceland.

Food in Iceland was generally more expensive, but then some things inexplicably were more regularly priced? It was hard to get a read on a strategy to save money.

If you really wanted to, you could just load up on fermented shark and caviar! Things that, to my Midwestern mind, should cost a bajillion dollars, but were very reasonably priced in this random convenience store.

That’s caviar for less than $9, and fermented shark for just over $16… Too bad fermented shark was the most foul thing I have ever smelled. I was told it tasted like blue cheese, but… I will never confirm that for you.

Day Two: Golden Circle

Walking mileage: 16 miles

I had a busy day planned for my Golden Circle trip! The Golden Circle is the most iconic day trip to take in Iceland. Very popular and busy, but for good reason. You can see so much in that little circle are, only driving about 1hr 30min from Reykjavik to do so.

I made a very important stop at Brauð & co. to start my morning. I had heard rave reviews of their “world famous” cinnamon rolls, and knew I had to try them. They did not disappoint. Like most places known for one thing, they also had a fantastic selection of other baked goods – including more rolls than just cinnamon! I ordered the cinnamon roll though, since it was the classic. I also couldn’t help but order an “Icelandic marriage cake,” which was described as a rhubarb crumble cake. Say less. I got some knowing I would want a treat later in the day.

The cinnamon roll was, frankly, incredible. More a cinnamon roll than any of the many cinnamon buns I had on this trip. And properly cinnamon, no trace of cardamom to be found. A powdered sugar/crumb topping. Fantastic dough texture. Loved every bite. I knew I would have to return.

Then, I popped around the corner to Sandholt bakery to pick up a sandwich to go. I was enticed by their pastry selection too, and made note of their “Icelandic donuts.” I would, naturally, have to figure out what those were. But for that morning, I only got a ham and cheese sandwich to go. And then I hit the road! Just before 8am.

I was early to arrive to Thingvellir National Park for a morning hike, which was good to beat the crowds. Then, on to Gullfoss waterfall and Geysir. All of the sights exceeded expectations. Everything was stunning.

Then, I popped over to Faxi Falls, a more “optional” stop on the Golden Circle drive. It was only 15 minutes from Geysir and very easy to fit in to an itinerary. It was also the shortest amount of walking you had to do to see the sights. So I decided it was the perfect place and time for lunch. I got my Sandholt ham and cheese, and some Appelsin that I’d brought (suggested by Laufey, so naturally I had to try some), and I ate with a view of the falls. Really stunning. Perhaps one of the best ham and cheeses of my life, but I realize that is 100% to do with the conditions I ate it in. Like, it was a good sandwich, but a great experience.

I also had stocked up on some car snacks for this adventure. More of that foreign country have-to-try-all-the-snacks feeling. I got some strawberry yogurt rice cakes, pizza flavored pretzels, and Appelsin. They helped fuel me for my afternoon stops at the Caves of Laugarvatn and my hike to Brúarfoss. I highly recommend hiking to Brúarfoss, because you get to walk past three waterfalls instead of just one, and the river and landscape is stunning.

After my hike to Brúarfoss, which was longer than anticipated due to the terrain, I really had to use the bathroom. So I searched for the nearest public restroom, which according to my map was just three minutes away. I followed the directions up a hill to what looked like some sort of small town, but then appeared to be a farm. I was initially confused and worried it was not actually a public restroom, but I forged on and entered a building… which turned out to be a creamery!!

I mean… talk about happy accidents. This was a creamery with tons of great flavors, and the cows right outside the windows. You could look at the cows as you ate your ice cream, or talk a stroll through the resto of the farm grounds and take in the view. It was, frankly, idyllic. And such a wonderful surprise that I was ecstatic.

I got two flavors of ice cream – Daim and Pretzel. I was intrigued by the popcorn, but figured I should get a Daim flavored something while I was in the Nordic countries. The Daim was great, but the pretzel flavor was truly a standout. Pretzel-milk flavored ice cream, then a ribbon of some sort of pretzel-y ganache through it, with some occasional chunks… Wow… It was incredible. And when she handed me my cup, the girl behind the counter said, “Don’t forget to eat your spoon,” in a way that implied she very much enjoyed getting to tell people that and seeing their reactions. The spoon was in fact edible! A dark cocoa waffle-y texture that held its shape and was incredibly effective.

After that delightful surprise, I was ready to head back to Reykjavik for the night. It was surprisingly late, given how it still felt like 4pm. So I got back to the city around 9pm, showered, and then was in need of a dinner. I was feeling quite tired and wanted to relax a bit, so I just popped over to a place called Reykjavik Chips that had a small menu of various burgers or fish and chips. They had an extravagant sauce menu and some great deals involving just “beer and chips” or “milkshake and chips,” so… my kind of place! I got some fish and chips to go, and got to interact with probably the greatest customer service worker in all of Iceland.

The people in Iceland were never rude. But when taking orders or checking you out at the store, there was a certainly level of stiffness. I think it was just a lack of American Midwestern sensibilities. Regardless, the general lack of over-friendliness meant that this guy stood out as the friendliest guy in Iceland. Cracking jokes, calmly explaining Bearnaise sauce to these two girls in front of me who just would not understand. Cracking jokes in your second language is also the greatest show of mastery, in my opinion, so he was really on it.

Beyond that little anecdote, my fish and chips were great. I enjoyed them in my hotel room and then went to sleep very easily, despite the daylight still pouring in the window.

I also got this Laufey drink from the store. I was wondering ahead of going whether I’d see anything Laufey themed while in Iceland, so of course I had to get this. It was tasty, and far far better than paying $30 for a cocktail or $14 for a beer.

Day Three: South Iceland

Walking mileage: 9.7 miles

I woke up feeling a bit like a cold was coming on. A scratchy throat and some stubborn congestion sitting in my chest. Frustrating, but sort of to be expected after the length and intensity of the trip I’d had up to this point. I went to a convenience store to ask if they had cough syrup, and the woman behind the counter said, ominously, “No one sells medicine here.” And At my expression, she added on, “only pharmacies.”

So, I considered adding a pharmacy to my list. But I was not going to let a wee cold impact my trip. I stopped by Sandholt bakery again, knowing I needed to try one of those Icelandic donuts. I got one to go and lingered a bit longer than intended, because pharmacies didn’t open that early. Please enjoy the selfie of me eating it in front of Hallgrímskirkja. I thought the donut was good – basically like a twisted Old Fashioned in texture. It had some cardamom, of course. Cardamom everywhere. But it wasn’t overly strong, and the donut was overall good. I did some research on the donut, and I was generally correct in the texture assessment.

After lingering a bit for timing, I hit the road to head towards Vik. I was a bit slower this morning, I blame the pharmacy indecision and my cold. But no matter! I manage to have a jam-packed day. I stopped by the Skogar Museum before visiting the Skógafoss waterfall.

Before trekking up the mountain, I enjoyed that rhubarb Marriage Cake that I’d gotten the day before. I scored this bench that so many people were walking past. As if it did not have a perfect view of the waterfall. I loved the marriage cake – rhubarb jam, a very oat-y crumble that held together way. An excellent way to start a hike. And probably an excellent way to start a marriage, I assume. I definitely thought it would be a great recipe to seek out to make at home.

Then, I hiked up the waterfall and kept going. I learned that Rule Number One of Iceland is to always keep walking along the trail, because there are likely two or three or four more waterfalls beyond just the big one.

When I got back, I continued on towards Vik. I stopped for lunch at a place called “The Soup Company” in Vik. It was attached to “The Lava Show” building, so I maybe should have caught on that it was a bit of trap sort of place. But there weren’t a ton of options in Vik. But there was a chill in the air, and I had a hankering for soup. I got the Icelandic Lamp Soup in a Bread Bowl (made black with charcoal – leaning in to the volcano theme a little heavily here). The only other place in Vik that I checked out was a pizza place with black crusts. So… maybe there were traps everywhere.

My soup was great! Hit the spot, even if slightly overpriced. Icelandic food is a tad more expensive than usual. The true robbery occurred with my drink. I ordered this Maltextrakt drink that I thought was sort of like a malt-y soda of some kind. It was always in the soda sections at stores. But apparently it has 1% alcohol, so I may have been charged as an alcoholic drink. It was $15!!!! ROBBERY! It wasn’t even good. Sort of sickly-sweet beer tasting. Oh well… The soup was good. And I would be more on guard.

After lunch, I walked the two black sand beaches in Vik (one was significantly superior). Then, a stop at Seljalandsfoss and an unmarked little trail on the way back to Reykjavik.

I wanted my last night dinner to be a little “nicer,” since I’d had sort of one “nice” meal in every country. It was also the last night of my trip! But I also wanted to avoid over-paying like crazy. Luckily, the restaurant I had marked next to my hotel – ROK – had decent prices. It also had a grass roof! So I knew I needed to go. Even if grass roofs are a dime a dozen in Iceland.

I ordered “Chestnut mushrooms and garlic with pesto on a roasted rye bread (V)” and “Chicken skewer with grilled paprika and garlic served with hummus, lemon and herbs.” Both dishes were delicious! No notes on either!

I ordered no drinks, of course, but saw on their menu that they offered a happy hour deal for a glass of Moet served with cantaloupe and licorice. Licorice everywhere! It was also good that I fulfilled my Aperol Spritz dreams in Copenhagen, because the Aperol Spritz here cost $21. And also it was 45 degrees out.

Then, I went back to my hotel and enjoyed a licorice chocolate bar that was very tasty. I’m telling you, if all this licorice stuff was available in the US, I’d be eating more candy.

Day Four: Last (Half) Day

Walking mileage: 4.6 miles

I had a rough night of sleep, as my cold had progressed enough to interfere with sleep. But I had only a few hours left in Iceland.

I stopped by Brauð & co. again, and I got a caramel and muesli bun, as well as a cheese pretzel for later. The caramel muesli bun was delicious. Wow. I love proper muesli, and, they turned it in to some sort of crumble for the top. Then, a caramelized sugar filling in between the layers. Again, the texture was unmatched. Wowie wow wow. I want to use muesli as a crumb on something myself now.

Fortified by my bun, I hit the road to make it to my 9am appointment at the Blue Lagoon. The Blue Lagoon exceeded any and all of my expectations! No photos, but I enjoyed a carrot ginger juice drink that was included in my entry. Very restorative and healing. Just like the very water itself, supposedly. It was the closest to a spa treatment as I’ll ever get, and it did make my cold seem to disappear. At least while in the water.

Then, I made a few more stops around the south peninsula – Búðakirkja, Volcano, Skali, and the Bridge Between Continents. I kept it a busy morning!! Then, on the way to the airport, I enjoyed my cheese pretzel from Brauð & co. It was very tasty, chewy, a good snack to brace myself before the airport and rental car return.

I finally knew this time that, leaving the Schengen area, I would have to deal with passport control on leaving, and they had sent an email about understaffing at KEF airport. So I booked it through the airport just to find… absolutely no line at passport control, and a 2 minute wait as they scanned my passport. Oh well. Again, I’d rather be overprepared and early than stressed in a line.

During my wait, I decompressed a little, and perused the food options. I got a regular ol’ sandwich and then saw these chocolate covered Bugles that I couldn’t resist. I was still in vacation mode for the time I was on the flight! And frankly… these were delicious. I wish these were sold in America. I could devour them.